A BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO THE ISLANDS
I've been going there since 1972, the last year Misty was alive. I've hiked, backpacked, camped in backcountry sites, stayed in motels and B&Bs, kayaked solo the entire length of the big island, and accidentally rode in the Fall Roundup...
All images on this page are mine, mine mine...
https://www.swordwhale.com/pookas-pumpkins-and-swamp...
All images on this page are mine, mine mine...
https://www.swordwhale.com/pookas-pumpkins-and-swamp...
Pony Penning is the last echo of livestock managing traditions that go back centuries.
Colonists used to run all sorts of livestock on the big barrier island of Assateague (which is pretty unliveable for humans and villages because of the shapeshifting nature of barrier islands). Cattle were removed in some war or other to avoid feeding the British Navy, and the last great sheep roundup happened in 1914.
The ponies continued to be left on the big island, rounded up as needed.
The ponies were never truly wild. They were always wandering semi-feral livestock, managed by locals. They live out their lives in natural equine social structures, doing as they wish. They are rounded up 3 times a year for maintenance, and for Pony Penning, which removes most of the foals to new homes. The prices of the foals tend to attract actual horsemen, not random tourists who used to stuff a foal into the back seat of their station wagons! (that's illegal now, you need a proper horse trailer). It's an island, full of wildlife, some of which is endangered, so the herd is limited to 150 ponies. Enough foals are kept each year to replenish the herd.
Colonists used to run all sorts of livestock on the big barrier island of Assateague (which is pretty unliveable for humans and villages because of the shapeshifting nature of barrier islands). Cattle were removed in some war or other to avoid feeding the British Navy, and the last great sheep roundup happened in 1914.
The ponies continued to be left on the big island, rounded up as needed.
The ponies were never truly wild. They were always wandering semi-feral livestock, managed by locals. They live out their lives in natural equine social structures, doing as they wish. They are rounded up 3 times a year for maintenance, and for Pony Penning, which removes most of the foals to new homes. The prices of the foals tend to attract actual horsemen, not random tourists who used to stuff a foal into the back seat of their station wagons! (that's illegal now, you need a proper horse trailer). It's an island, full of wildlife, some of which is endangered, so the herd is limited to 150 ponies. Enough foals are kept each year to replenish the herd.
If you're into camping, sign up a year in advance: Assateague Island can only be camped on in MD, not VA, and the state and national parks fill up fast. I used to be able to drive down there, and find a site. Nope. Not now. Pokomoke is inland, about 20 minutes from either end of Assateague and a gorgeous MD State Park in the shady woods along the Pokomoke River, which is a nice paddle. If you're on Assateague, do NOT camp in any bayside camp: it is Mosquito Hell. Do camp on the beach (The MD state park has excellent sites with decadent bathhouses, tent or RV friendly). With preparation and proper gear, it can be a fabulous experience. Where else can you get up in the middle of the night, walk a few yards, and watch the moon over the sea.
If you are camping in MD, on Assateague:
Fall and winter are perfect times to visit if you don't like the heat of summer, crowds or bugs. Assateague/Chincoteague is part of the Mid-Atlantic flyway, and hosts many kinds of migrating birds, as well as local shorebirds. There is a fall pony roundup (for herd maintenance). You can hike, bike, do the trails, watch ponies, visit the lighthouse, eat local seafood, take a boat tour with Captain Dan (or others). The water is best in Sept, nice in Oct, and doable in Dec with a wetsuit. You can always walk barefoot on the beach, and in the swash, even in Dec. In December, Chincoteague is empty, except for locals, and the town is quietly lit up with "Christmas By the Sea" decor. Recreational kayaking is best done in warm weather, when it's safer to fall out of your boat (you will, trust me), but if you are an expert touring kayaker, with a good roll or drysuit, and buddies, you might want to try the quieter cold weather paddling in Tom's Cove and the back bays.
Go to the bottom of the page for more on off season island time and pics...
Look at google earth: Assateague is a 40 mile long dragon of a barrier island, rolling over itself toward land...Chincoteague is the tiny egg tucked into the southern curve of the dragon's tail. Assateague is where the wild things are: several state parks, national seashores and a wildlife refuge keep it that way. It almost became Ocean Shitty South, developers had begun laying out roads and everything (you can sometimes find random chunks of assphalt on the beach). Then the Great Ash Wednesday Storm of 62 (a nor'easter) erased half of Assateague. The big island, and Chincoteague emerged from the wreckage, but most of the pony herd and nearly all of the chickens on Chicken City Road were gone. Marguerite Henry famously wrote about it in the Misty sequel: Stormy: Misty's Foal. I met Stormy in my travels and did a sketch from life. Misty had ridden out the storm in the Beebe's kitchen, and Wesley Dennis did a fabulous illustration of them leading Misty up the steps. When I visited the Beebe Ranch in 2019, I got a pic of those steps... (and Billy Beebe).
In 2023, a campaign ensued to Save The Beebe Ranch (the barn burned a few years before, along with a lot of historical items). A buyback foal figured into it. Another pony saving a piece of the islands and their history, as Misty and Stormy did in 1962. Welcome Beebe's Perfect Storm!
https://chincoteaguemuseum.com/save-the-beebe-ranch/
If you are camping in MD, on Assateague:
- Yes, the beach is sandy, the water is full of fish. Welcome to Nature.
- The wind will blow your tent down, even while you're putting it up. Get help. Use stakes designed for sand, or use bags buried, with tent attached. Put some gear inside to add weight. Not food tho.
- Welcome to the barrier island, there are several dozen kinds of blood sucking insect vampires. Bring the good bug stuff, spray your clothes, have light, loose clothes to block the bugs. On the water, or on the beach with a sea breeze, you'll be free of bugs.
- Be prepared to hike your gear over some sand if you are camping in the primitive sites of the National Seashore. The state park is more convenient and has actual bathhouses/restrooms/electricity.
- Secure all food in your vehicle, because ponies are the actual pirates on this island. Equines have weird digestive systems: your food can kill them. Never ever ever approach or feed them! They are used to humans, but they speak Horse and that can involve teeth, feet and flinging you several yards. They are NOT trained. Watch from a polite distance, use a zoom.
- Have a plan for when that afternoon thunderstorm blows up. There are shelters on the beach, the bathhouses, or you can get into your vehicle... or go to Chincoteague and explore the town.
- Watch the weather, know the tide tables. The same stretch of beach will shapeshift and the surf will change radically. Don't tempt Poseidon. Be aware of surf conditions, riptides, and even that tide-coming-in dumping surf that you're too tired to handle.
- Ask questions at the visitors' centers. They have all the info!
Fall and winter are perfect times to visit if you don't like the heat of summer, crowds or bugs. Assateague/Chincoteague is part of the Mid-Atlantic flyway, and hosts many kinds of migrating birds, as well as local shorebirds. There is a fall pony roundup (for herd maintenance). You can hike, bike, do the trails, watch ponies, visit the lighthouse, eat local seafood, take a boat tour with Captain Dan (or others). The water is best in Sept, nice in Oct, and doable in Dec with a wetsuit. You can always walk barefoot on the beach, and in the swash, even in Dec. In December, Chincoteague is empty, except for locals, and the town is quietly lit up with "Christmas By the Sea" decor. Recreational kayaking is best done in warm weather, when it's safer to fall out of your boat (you will, trust me), but if you are an expert touring kayaker, with a good roll or drysuit, and buddies, you might want to try the quieter cold weather paddling in Tom's Cove and the back bays.
Go to the bottom of the page for more on off season island time and pics...
Look at google earth: Assateague is a 40 mile long dragon of a barrier island, rolling over itself toward land...Chincoteague is the tiny egg tucked into the southern curve of the dragon's tail. Assateague is where the wild things are: several state parks, national seashores and a wildlife refuge keep it that way. It almost became Ocean Shitty South, developers had begun laying out roads and everything (you can sometimes find random chunks of assphalt on the beach). Then the Great Ash Wednesday Storm of 62 (a nor'easter) erased half of Assateague. The big island, and Chincoteague emerged from the wreckage, but most of the pony herd and nearly all of the chickens on Chicken City Road were gone. Marguerite Henry famously wrote about it in the Misty sequel: Stormy: Misty's Foal. I met Stormy in my travels and did a sketch from life. Misty had ridden out the storm in the Beebe's kitchen, and Wesley Dennis did a fabulous illustration of them leading Misty up the steps. When I visited the Beebe Ranch in 2019, I got a pic of those steps... (and Billy Beebe).
In 2023, a campaign ensued to Save The Beebe Ranch (the barn burned a few years before, along with a lot of historical items). A buyback foal figured into it. Another pony saving a piece of the islands and their history, as Misty and Stormy did in 1962. Welcome Beebe's Perfect Storm!
https://chincoteaguemuseum.com/save-the-beebe-ranch/
The Refuge Inn is a great little motel, right at the edge of Chincoteague. They've got ponies in the yard, including a perlino pinto with blue eyes named Misty's Honeymoon.
From the Chincoteague Pony Pedigree Database: Perlino tobiano female with blaze, four stockings. Blue eyes. Born June 2, 2019. Great great great great grandfoal of Misty.
You are right at the edge of Chincoteague there, and can drive east onto Assateague and the parks/refuge in moments, or take a bike.
Refuge Inn is a family owned business, local, not a chain. I was impressed. The MacD's is next door, but Chincoteague has tons of options for food, especially local food.
There are also various rent-a-cabins, and at least one Comfort Inn which are nice.
There is a neat little well stocked grocery on Chincoteague, and one gas station. The grocery has beer and wine too...
AND CHINCOTEAGUE SOUPS.
It's the only place I've found Chincoteague Soups. I usually stock up and take a bunch home.
From the Chincoteague Pony Pedigree Database: Perlino tobiano female with blaze, four stockings. Blue eyes. Born June 2, 2019. Great great great great grandfoal of Misty.
You are right at the edge of Chincoteague there, and can drive east onto Assateague and the parks/refuge in moments, or take a bike.
Refuge Inn is a family owned business, local, not a chain. I was impressed. The MacD's is next door, but Chincoteague has tons of options for food, especially local food.
There are also various rent-a-cabins, and at least one Comfort Inn which are nice.
There is a neat little well stocked grocery on Chincoteague, and one gas station. The grocery has beer and wine too...
AND CHINCOTEAGUE SOUPS.
It's the only place I've found Chincoteague Soups. I usually stock up and take a bunch home.
MAKE USE OF THE PARK PROGRAMS
Check out the visitor's centers for parks and refuge. They have all kinds of programs that are mostly free and immerse you in the real life of the islands.
There are also trails you can walk, bike. The Hook is open to everyone, including horseback riders and kayakers after Labor Day (when the nesting birds are gone).
PULL OVER AND USE YOUR CAR AS A BLIND
On the way to the beach, there is a long stretch coming out of the woods, where to the south/right you'll see a stretch of marsh with tree islands. Ponies hang out there, along with egrets and others.
To the north/left are lagoons (also some on the right) where you will see cattle egrets, snowy egrets, great egrets, and the odd blue heron, as well as gulls and others.
Take a good bird guide.
Brown pelicans can be found in the shallow bays between the islands (kayak or boat tour), but often fly past the beach in pterodactyly lines.
Check out the visitor's centers for parks and refuge. They have all kinds of programs that are mostly free and immerse you in the real life of the islands.
There are also trails you can walk, bike. The Hook is open to everyone, including horseback riders and kayakers after Labor Day (when the nesting birds are gone).
PULL OVER AND USE YOUR CAR AS A BLIND
On the way to the beach, there is a long stretch coming out of the woods, where to the south/right you'll see a stretch of marsh with tree islands. Ponies hang out there, along with egrets and others.
To the north/left are lagoons (also some on the right) where you will see cattle egrets, snowy egrets, great egrets, and the odd blue heron, as well as gulls and others.
Take a good bird guide.
Brown pelicans can be found in the shallow bays between the islands (kayak or boat tour), but often fly past the beach in pterodactyly lines.
One of the best ways to see the Pony Swim is your own kayak. You have to study the layout of the channel, find the launch (Memorial Park is good but GET THERE EARLY), and paddle to the location behind the boat line where the yaks pack up.
No, canoes do not work here. They will ship water and blow around in the wind. This is open water, tidal water, and requires a seaworthy boat. Some small rec boats will be fine, if you stay close to shore, or are Aquaman. Sea or touring kayaks are best. Stay in the bays and channels. Only go offshore if you're an expert with buddies. Sit-in kayaks, sit-on kayaks or paddleboards are fine.
More on kayaking the islands here:
https://www.swordwhale.com/kayaking-assateague-and-chincoteague.html
A big puff of red smoke announces the swim.
There will be approximate times for the swim posted earlier, check the Chincoteague Fire Company's page, or any of the pony pages (search on facebook). Swim is at slack tide: the point where low tide has been achieved, the water stops moving for a bit, before it turns and begins rising.
Only fit ponies swim, old, too young are trucked over. The swim is an old tradition where any livestock had to be swum over, because the bridges and causeway didn't happen until the 60s. The movie, Misty of Chincoteague, still shown at Pony Penning, was made in 1961, and it shows the kids going to Assateague by boat, because there was no causeway or bridge. The lighthouse is also just a brick tower with no daymark: the red and white stripes that mark what lighthouse it is, that can be seen by a ship at sea.
No, canoes do not work here. They will ship water and blow around in the wind. This is open water, tidal water, and requires a seaworthy boat. Some small rec boats will be fine, if you stay close to shore, or are Aquaman. Sea or touring kayaks are best. Stay in the bays and channels. Only go offshore if you're an expert with buddies. Sit-in kayaks, sit-on kayaks or paddleboards are fine.
More on kayaking the islands here:
https://www.swordwhale.com/kayaking-assateague-and-chincoteague.html
A big puff of red smoke announces the swim.
There will be approximate times for the swim posted earlier, check the Chincoteague Fire Company's page, or any of the pony pages (search on facebook). Swim is at slack tide: the point where low tide has been achieved, the water stops moving for a bit, before it turns and begins rising.
Only fit ponies swim, old, too young are trucked over. The swim is an old tradition where any livestock had to be swum over, because the bridges and causeway didn't happen until the 60s. The movie, Misty of Chincoteague, still shown at Pony Penning, was made in 1961, and it shows the kids going to Assateague by boat, because there was no causeway or bridge. The lighthouse is also just a brick tower with no daymark: the red and white stripes that mark what lighthouse it is, that can be seen by a ship at sea.
VISIT THE LIGHTHOUSE
It is one of the most gorgeous lighthouses in existence. You can climb its spiral stair, peer out the windows as you go up, and walk out on the catwalk. You used to be able to go inside the lightroom, but no more.
It was a plain brick tower until 1969 when it was painted with the iconic red and white stripes.
It was re-painted not long ago. I have pics of its layers of chipped paint, and of the new paint. It is glorious.
Do stop on Assateague, on the beach road, by the visitor's center, as night falls, and get shots of the Light across the water. Drive by it in the dark, get out in the parking lot, and watch the four spoked wheel of light spin over the trees.
https://www.swordwhale.com/assateague-light.html
It is one of the most gorgeous lighthouses in existence. You can climb its spiral stair, peer out the windows as you go up, and walk out on the catwalk. You used to be able to go inside the lightroom, but no more.
It was a plain brick tower until 1969 when it was painted with the iconic red and white stripes.
It was re-painted not long ago. I have pics of its layers of chipped paint, and of the new paint. It is glorious.
Do stop on Assateague, on the beach road, by the visitor's center, as night falls, and get shots of the Light across the water. Drive by it in the dark, get out in the parking lot, and watch the four spoked wheel of light spin over the trees.
https://www.swordwhale.com/assateague-light.html
Hi, welcome to the salt marsh, the air force will greet you presently.
There are several dozen species of bloodsucking vampires on the islands: skeeters, flies, and at least 3 count'em 3 kinds of ticks.
The good news is they are part of the ecosystem and you are giving blood to support...
oh... right...
Chincoteague controls its skeeters, more or less. A mild dose of bug stuff and some clothes will keep them off.
The vampires fear water: on the water in a boat? No problem. On the beach with a sea wind? No problem. Land breeze at night for your beach campfire... I watched a couple of teens in bikinis go bonkers... their grandparents had TRIED to explain... they ended up using a can of bug stuff...
Light loose clothing, windbreakers, flappy pants, socks, shoes, a towel wrapped around your head (did that once crossing the island on a hike)... spray your clothes with bug stuff, the GOOD stuff, like 100% DEET, or Deep Woods Off. There used ot be one called Cutter that worked too. Leave the aloe scented yard spray back home, it's useless.
During the day in most tourist venues you won't have issues. Going on trails or into the backcountry, well, you're now in THEIR WORLD. The lighthouse trail has skeeters during the day, and you should carry bug stuff and wear long pants...
There are several dozen species of bloodsucking vampires on the islands: skeeters, flies, and at least 3 count'em 3 kinds of ticks.
The good news is they are part of the ecosystem and you are giving blood to support...
oh... right...
Chincoteague controls its skeeters, more or less. A mild dose of bug stuff and some clothes will keep them off.
The vampires fear water: on the water in a boat? No problem. On the beach with a sea wind? No problem. Land breeze at night for your beach campfire... I watched a couple of teens in bikinis go bonkers... their grandparents had TRIED to explain... they ended up using a can of bug stuff...
Light loose clothing, windbreakers, flappy pants, socks, shoes, a towel wrapped around your head (did that once crossing the island on a hike)... spray your clothes with bug stuff, the GOOD stuff, like 100% DEET, or Deep Woods Off. There used ot be one called Cutter that worked too. Leave the aloe scented yard spray back home, it's useless.
During the day in most tourist venues you won't have issues. Going on trails or into the backcountry, well, you're now in THEIR WORLD. The lighthouse trail has skeeters during the day, and you should carry bug stuff and wear long pants...
TAKE A LOCAL BOAT TOUR
Captain Dan's Around the Island Tours is my favorite. Again, sign up early, like yesterday... at least for Pony Penning.
There are other boat tours, but I did Capt Dan's a few times and they are fun. You get into the back country and see ponies and wildlife. Of course the ponies are going to be penned at Pony Penning. But any other time of year you'll see them out and about in their usual territories. Capt Dan knows not only the history of the islands, but the ponies too.
There are apps to identify ponies in both the MD and VA herds. They are two separate herds: MD is managed like wildlife by the park service, VA is owned and managed by the Chincoteague Fire Co.
DSC Photography is a couple who hike all over Assateague following and photographing the ponies. Their site alone is a great ID for the MD herd. You can support their local business by buying books or merch. They have a facebook page too.
https://www.dscphotography.net/
Captain Dan's Around the Island Tours is my favorite. Again, sign up early, like yesterday... at least for Pony Penning.
There are other boat tours, but I did Capt Dan's a few times and they are fun. You get into the back country and see ponies and wildlife. Of course the ponies are going to be penned at Pony Penning. But any other time of year you'll see them out and about in their usual territories. Capt Dan knows not only the history of the islands, but the ponies too.
There are apps to identify ponies in both the MD and VA herds. They are two separate herds: MD is managed like wildlife by the park service, VA is owned and managed by the Chincoteague Fire Co.
DSC Photography is a couple who hike all over Assateague following and photographing the ponies. Their site alone is a great ID for the MD herd. You can support their local business by buying books or merch. They have a facebook page too.
https://www.dscphotography.net/
A BRIEF HISTORY
Pony Penning is the last echo of livestock managing traditions that go back centuries.
Colonists used to run all sorts of livestock on the big barrier island of Assateague (which is pretty unliveable for humans and villages because of the shapeshifting nature of barrier islands). Cattle were removed in some war or other to avoid feeding the British Navy, and the last great sheep roundup happened in 1914.
The ponies continued to be left on the big island, rounded up as needed.
Then Marguerite Henry's publisher heard about it and sent her there. She spent some time on Chincoteague and wrote a little book that got popular, and put the ponies on the map.
1. They are PONIES. Unless they are over 14.2 hands. A hand is four inches. There is no difference in build, or type between ponies and horses. I can show you a 7.2 hand mini, a 10 hand Shetland, a 14 hand Halflinger and a 16.5 Belgian and they all look alike (even the color)... only difference is height. Some breeds have a tradition of calling their critters "pony" or "horse" because, whatever. Chincoteagues taken off island as foals will sometimes grow over 14.2. Ignore the MD park service's assertion that they are horses. Meh. They are PONIES.
2. They probably have a Spanish Colonial Horse background, along with some western mustangs, the ponies of the Outer Banks, the Marsh Tacky of SC, and the Florida Cracker Horse. Chincoteagues also have a LOT of other DNA mixed in. The most iconic pony after Misty, whose image you'll see all over Chincoteague is Surfer Dude (and his son Riptide). Surfer is half mustang, 1/8 Arabian (out of a 1/4 Arabian mare who is by a 1/2 Arabian stallion) and the rest Chincoteague Pony. Mustangs were introduced in the past but were not well adapted to the salt marsh environment.
3. The shipwreck story is plausible: the Spanish were major explorers/colonizers south of the Chesapeake Bay. The eastern shore, lacking rocks, does have a LOT of shifting sandbars that snag the unwary ship. A wreck dive map shows a gazillion sunken ships that we know about. Undoubtedly ships ran aground, were carrying horses, and cargo and horses were salvaged or let loose to fend for themselves.Look up La Galga.
4. Assateague is a wildlife haven, the reason I go there is it's the last wild beach for a very long stretch of coast. No condos, no hotels, no T-shirt shops. It is managed with some areas left wild and unreachable except by the very determined (backcountry hiking/paddling permits are free)(if you've got the gumption and the gear)...some areas accessible to all (the main beach, and offroad areas with permits)... and some areas out of bounds (the Hook in summer is a breeding ground for endangered species like piping plovers).
5. Ponies are introduced species, but have been there so long they are part of the system, the history, and the tradition. they have always been managed in VA by herd owners rounding up stock and selling it off. After the Ash Wednesday Storm of 1962, the island was divided, and the northern ponies (MD) became wildlife in the parks. They are managed with birth control, limiting herd numbers (there are no natural predators).
The southern herd is managed with roundups, selling foals. This supports the fire co and Chincoteague in general, as well, as the parks who benefit from the tourism. The herd is limited to 150 ponies.
Sika elk (half the size of a whitetail and darker, with spots on adults) were introduced too, but are controlled by hunting.
6. You will note drovers/saltwater cowboys cracking bullwhips to drive the ponies (no, they are not beating up ponies). This is an old livestock handling style. In the west, cowboys adopted the Spanish style of livestock handling, with lariats, roping livestock. Chincoteague might be the last bastion of the "Indiana Jones style" of livestock driving. A good bullwhip makes a loud crack that most animals will move away from. A good handler of one can flick a fly off a mule's ear without disturbing them... or tap someone on the butt as needed.
I used to stay at a friend's place on Willow Street, and on the morning of the swim, before dawn, I have heard the clop clop of hooves on the street, and got up to get pics of saltwater cowboys heading for Pony Swim Lane...
Pony Penning is the last echo of livestock managing traditions that go back centuries.
Colonists used to run all sorts of livestock on the big barrier island of Assateague (which is pretty unliveable for humans and villages because of the shapeshifting nature of barrier islands). Cattle were removed in some war or other to avoid feeding the British Navy, and the last great sheep roundup happened in 1914.
The ponies continued to be left on the big island, rounded up as needed.
Then Marguerite Henry's publisher heard about it and sent her there. She spent some time on Chincoteague and wrote a little book that got popular, and put the ponies on the map.
1. They are PONIES. Unless they are over 14.2 hands. A hand is four inches. There is no difference in build, or type between ponies and horses. I can show you a 7.2 hand mini, a 10 hand Shetland, a 14 hand Halflinger and a 16.5 Belgian and they all look alike (even the color)... only difference is height. Some breeds have a tradition of calling their critters "pony" or "horse" because, whatever. Chincoteagues taken off island as foals will sometimes grow over 14.2. Ignore the MD park service's assertion that they are horses. Meh. They are PONIES.
2. They probably have a Spanish Colonial Horse background, along with some western mustangs, the ponies of the Outer Banks, the Marsh Tacky of SC, and the Florida Cracker Horse. Chincoteagues also have a LOT of other DNA mixed in. The most iconic pony after Misty, whose image you'll see all over Chincoteague is Surfer Dude (and his son Riptide). Surfer is half mustang, 1/8 Arabian (out of a 1/4 Arabian mare who is by a 1/2 Arabian stallion) and the rest Chincoteague Pony. Mustangs were introduced in the past but were not well adapted to the salt marsh environment.
3. The shipwreck story is plausible: the Spanish were major explorers/colonizers south of the Chesapeake Bay. The eastern shore, lacking rocks, does have a LOT of shifting sandbars that snag the unwary ship. A wreck dive map shows a gazillion sunken ships that we know about. Undoubtedly ships ran aground, were carrying horses, and cargo and horses were salvaged or let loose to fend for themselves.Look up La Galga.
4. Assateague is a wildlife haven, the reason I go there is it's the last wild beach for a very long stretch of coast. No condos, no hotels, no T-shirt shops. It is managed with some areas left wild and unreachable except by the very determined (backcountry hiking/paddling permits are free)(if you've got the gumption and the gear)...some areas accessible to all (the main beach, and offroad areas with permits)... and some areas out of bounds (the Hook in summer is a breeding ground for endangered species like piping plovers).
5. Ponies are introduced species, but have been there so long they are part of the system, the history, and the tradition. they have always been managed in VA by herd owners rounding up stock and selling it off. After the Ash Wednesday Storm of 1962, the island was divided, and the northern ponies (MD) became wildlife in the parks. They are managed with birth control, limiting herd numbers (there are no natural predators).
The southern herd is managed with roundups, selling foals. This supports the fire co and Chincoteague in general, as well, as the parks who benefit from the tourism. The herd is limited to 150 ponies.
Sika elk (half the size of a whitetail and darker, with spots on adults) were introduced too, but are controlled by hunting.
6. You will note drovers/saltwater cowboys cracking bullwhips to drive the ponies (no, they are not beating up ponies). This is an old livestock handling style. In the west, cowboys adopted the Spanish style of livestock handling, with lariats, roping livestock. Chincoteague might be the last bastion of the "Indiana Jones style" of livestock driving. A good bullwhip makes a loud crack that most animals will move away from. A good handler of one can flick a fly off a mule's ear without disturbing them... or tap someone on the butt as needed.
I used to stay at a friend's place on Willow Street, and on the morning of the swim, before dawn, I have heard the clop clop of hooves on the street, and got up to get pics of saltwater cowboys heading for Pony Swim Lane...
OYSTER SANDWICH
Yeah, get one of those at the carnival in July. Or other local food. It's awesome. The carnival also has a nifty carousel.
There are a number of good local restaurants. No need to go off island.
My fav is Captain Zack's, a local family owned business that is named after the kid (who is now grown up)...
https://www.captzackseafood.com/
THE MUSEUM
Across from Refuge Inn is a small museum that houses the original Fresnell lens from the lighthouse, taxeidermied Misty and Stormy (a labor of local love, but the dude knew deer better than horses), and lots of neat local trivia.
GET UP AT THE BUTTCRACK OF DAWN
...actually, before, so you can drive out to the beach and catch the sun coming up out of the sea.
Later that day, turn around and watch it sink into the west over Tom's Cove.
There is a spot in approximately Parking Lot 4 where the sea is on one side, and Tom's Cove on the other, and you could literally throw a rock from the beach and hit the water in the cove.
https://www.swordwhale.com/chincoteague.html
https://www.swordwhale.com/chincoteague-2019.html
Yeah, get one of those at the carnival in July. Or other local food. It's awesome. The carnival also has a nifty carousel.
There are a number of good local restaurants. No need to go off island.
My fav is Captain Zack's, a local family owned business that is named after the kid (who is now grown up)...
https://www.captzackseafood.com/
THE MUSEUM
Across from Refuge Inn is a small museum that houses the original Fresnell lens from the lighthouse, taxeidermied Misty and Stormy (a labor of local love, but the dude knew deer better than horses), and lots of neat local trivia.
GET UP AT THE BUTTCRACK OF DAWN
...actually, before, so you can drive out to the beach and catch the sun coming up out of the sea.
Later that day, turn around and watch it sink into the west over Tom's Cove.
There is a spot in approximately Parking Lot 4 where the sea is on one side, and Tom's Cove on the other, and you could literally throw a rock from the beach and hit the water in the cove.
https://www.swordwhale.com/chincoteague.html
https://www.swordwhale.com/chincoteague-2019.html
Fall and winter are fabulous on the islands: https://www.swordwhale.com/christmas-by-the-sea.html
Here's some shots from Christmas By the Sea, and fall roundup, plus birbs!
Here's some shots from Christmas By the Sea, and fall roundup, plus birbs!
